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Previous Chapter<\/a> | Next Chapter<\/a> | Table of Contents<\/a><\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tsim Sha Tsui<\/a> | Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, and Northern Kowloon<\/a> | The New Territories<\/a><\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Parts of Kowloon are among the most densely populated areas on the planet and support a corresponding abundance of restaurants. Many hotels, planted here for the view of Hong Kong Island (spectacular at night), also have excellent restaurants, though they’re uniformly expensive. Some of the best food in Kowloon is served in backstreet eateries, where immigrants from Vietnam, Thailand, and elsewhere in Asia keep their native cooking skills sharp.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

TSIM SHA TSUI<\/h2>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tsim Sha Tsui is a foodie’s paradise. The high density of hotels here—from the legendary Peninsula Hotel to the chic and modern Mira Hotel—means that there is no shortage of luxury dining options. This district also has several large shopping malls, all filled with restaurants, some better than others. The area is also known for its authentic Korean and Indian cuisine. For the best local eats, though, head to neighboring Yau Ma Tei, especially the Jordan Road area, and to Mong Kok. The eateries here tend to be cramped and noisy, but it’s worth exploring for those who want to immerse themselves in the city’s local culture.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

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The Dim Sum Experience<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Dim sum restaurants have always been associated with noise, so don’t be dissuaded by the boisterous throngs of locals gathered around large round tables. At one time big metal carts filled with bamboo baskets were pushed around the restaurant by ladies who would shout out the names of the dishes and stamp a mark onto a table’s check when it ordered a basket of this or that. This is still the typical dim sum experience outside of China, but in Hong Kong most restaurants require you to order off a form, creating a more sedate and efficient dining experience. Thankfully, many places offer English-translated order forms or menus, although you should ask your waiter about daily specials that might not appear in translation, as those are often some of the most exciting dim sum options. And never forget that most basic principle of Hong Kong ordering: simply point to something you see at a nearby table.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Although dim sum comes in small portions, it’s still intended for sharing among several diners. When all is said and done, a group can expect to sample about 10 or 12 dishes, but don’t order more than one of any single item. Most dim sum restaurants prepare between 15 and 100 varieties of the more than 2,000 kinds of dim sum in the Cantonese repertoire, daily. These can be dumplings, buns, crepes, cakes, pastries, or rice; they can be filled with beef, shrimp, pork, chicken, bean paste, or vegetables; and they can be bamboo-steamed, panfried, baked, or deep-fried. More esoteric offerings vary vastly from place to place. Abandon any squeamish tendencies and try at least one or two unusual plates, like marinated chicken’s feet or steamed rice rolls filled with pork liver.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

You’ll be able to find dim sum from before dawn to around 5 or 6 pm, but it’s most popular for breakfast (from about 7:30 to 10 am) and lunch (from about 11:30 am to 2:30 pm). Dim sum is served everywhere from local teahouses to high-concept restaurants, but it’s often best at casually elegant, blandly decorated midrange spots that cater to Chinese families.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

The following is a guide to some of our favorite common dim sum items, but don’t let it narrow your mind. It’s almost impossible to find a bite of dim sum that’s anything less than delicious, and the more unique house specialties can often be the best.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

BUNS<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Cha Siu So:<\/span> baked barbecued pork pastry buns; they’re less common than the steamed cha siu bao, but arguably even better.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Cha Siu Bao:<\/span> steamed barbecued pork buns are an absolute must. With the combination of soft and chewy textures and sweet and salty tastes, you might forget to remove the paper underneath before eating.<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

DUMPLINGS<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Har Gau:<\/span> steamed dumplings with a light translucent wrap that conceals shrimp and bamboo shoots.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Siu Mai:<\/span> steamed pork dumplings are the most common dumplings, and you’ll find them everywhere, easily recognizable by their bright yellow wrappers; some are stuffed with shrimp as an additional filling.<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

MEATS<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Ngau Yuk Yuan:<\/span> steamed beef balls, like meatballs, placed on top of thin bean-curd skins and served with vinegar; not the most flavorful option, but a good one for kids or picky eaters.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Pie Gwat:<\/span> bite-size pieces of succulent pork spare ribs in a black-bean and chili-pepper sauce.<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

RICE CREATIONS<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Har Cheong Fun:<\/span> shrimp-filled rice rolls, whose dough is made in a rice-noodle style; the thick, flat rice rolls are drowned in soy sauce. Other versions include ngau yuk cheong fun (beef filled) and cha siu cheong fun (barbecued pork filled; if available, these are not to be missed).<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Ja Leung:<\/span> similar to cheong fun but filled with a crunchy, deep-fried pastry. The rice-noodle dough is sometimes dotted with chopped scallions. These are served with soy sauce but should also be dunked in sweet sauce and peanut paste. They’re delicious but increasingly hard to find.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Ho Yip Fan:<\/span> delicious sticky rice, which is usually cooked with chopped Chinese mushrooms, Chinese preserved sausage, and dried shrimp, and wrapped and steamed in a lotus leaf to keep it moist (don’t eat the leaf).<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

DON’T BE AFRAID OF …<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Woo Tao Go:<\/span> a glutinous panfried taro cake, sweet enough for dessert but eaten as a savory dish, with delicate undertones that come from preserved Chinese sausage, preserved pork belly, and dried shrimp. Another version of this is lau bak go<\/span>, which is made with turnip instead of taro.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Foong Jow:<\/span> marinated chicken feet, whose smooth, soft texture is unlike any other. Once you get past the idea that you’re sucking the cartilage off a foot, the sensation is wonderful.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Gam Cheen To:<\/span> cow’s stomach served with chunks of daikon and doused in an addictive black-bean sauce with chili.<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

SWEETS<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("
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•<\/span>Dan Taht:<\/span> tarts with a custard filling, generally served for dessert.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Mong Gwor Bo Deen:<\/span> mango pudding that has a consistently glassy texture. The pudding itself is not too sweet and needs to be eaten with condensed milk.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

•<\/span>Ma Lai Go:<\/span> This soft and spongy steamed cake is served warm and is popular for its eggy, custardy aroma.<\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Aqua.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | ECLECTIC<\/span> | This trendy restaurant and bar is in the penthouse of the One Peking Road building, and you might hear it referred to by many different names (Aqua Tokyo, Aqua Roma, Aqua Spirit). The menu brings together the East and the West—the Japanese kitchen plates up fresh sashimi, tempura, and innovative sushi rolls, while the restaurant’s Italian side offers traditional risottos and pastas with a modern twist. The Japanese offerings usually fare better than the Italian ones, but the thing really worth going to Aqua for is the superb view of the Hong Kong skyline. You might want to just stop in for a drink—the bar stays open until 2 am from Thursday to Saturday. | Average main: HK$380<\/span> | 29th and 30th fl.,<\/span>1 Peking Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> |3427–2288<\/span> | www.aqua.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Chez Shibata.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | BAKERY<\/span> | Dessert fans should check out Chez Shibata. The pâtisserie combines classic French recipes with Japanese ingredients and techniques, and the results are all delicious. Be sure to try the mille feuille layed with custard and cream chantilly. | Average main: HK$40<\/span> | Elements Mall,<\/span>1 Austin Rd. West<\/span>, 2nd fl. <\/span>| Kowloon<\/span> | 2196–8921<\/span> | 
www.chez-shibata.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Kowloon<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Chuan Shao.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This place fires up the grill with skewered items that draw flavor inspiration from Sichuan. The menu is extensive, capping in at more than 100 different choices on any given day (including daily and seasonal specials). Grilled fish is perfect with beer, as are the tsukune<\/span> chicken meatballs. When in season, order grilled oysters, clams, and other seafood items. The folks at Chuan Shao also serve grilled banana and pineapple for dessert. The restaurant is open until late, and there’s plenty of beer, so anyone staying at a hotel in the area might just want to keep this place in mind. | Average main: HK$100<\/span> | 29–31 Chatham Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2311–8101<\/span> | No lunch<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Din Tai Fung.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | TAIWANESE<\/span> | Originally from Taiwan, this global restaurant chain is most famous for its expertly made dumplings. The place is serious about its craft—each dumpling is made from a specified amount of dough and kneaded to a uniform thinness to ensure maximum quality control. The signature steamedxiao long bao<\/span> dumplings arrive piping hot at the table, filled with delectable fatty pork and slurpfuls of flavorful broth. Anyone with a sweet tooth should try the taro-paste dumpling. The excellent food is paired with VIP treatment from the friendly staff, making Din Tai Fung completely worthy of its immense popularity. | Average main: HK$110<\/span> | 3rd fl., Silvercord,<\/span>30 Canton Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2730–6928<\/span> | 
www.dintaifung.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Dong Lai Shun.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This Chinese restaurant specializes in Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine and is known for its shuan yang rou<\/span> (mutton hot pot). The restaurant offers a host of other great dishes, including traditional Peking duck and the award-winning combination of wok-fried crabmeat, rock lobster, and salted egg yolk served on rice crackers. Appetizers are particularly good—order the smoked eggs and crispy eel. Dong Lai Shun is also famous for its annual hairy crab menu, which is only available in the fall when the shelled delicacy is in season. | Average main: HK$250<\/span> | The Royal Garden,<\/span>69 Mody Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2733–2020<\/span> | 
www.rghk.com.hk<\/a><\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

En Tsim Sha Tsui.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | JAPANESE<\/span> | Unlike some of the more common Japanese eateries, Rakuen serves authentic Okinawan cuisine. Start with the umi-budo<\/span>—an interesting variety of sea kelp shaped like bunches of grapes (the bubble-like appearance has also won it its “green caviar” nickname). Other regional specialties include the homemade peanut tofu, which, despite the name, is not a tofu dish but a gelatinized mixture of peanuts that has a chewy but firm texture and discerning nutty flavor, which is drawn out by a drizzling of soy sauce. Okinawan ingredients—such as bitter gourd and squid-ink noodles—are found throughout the menu, and the melt-in-the-mouth grilled ox tongue is a definite must-order. | Average main: HK$150<\/span> | Golden Dragon Ctr.,<\/span>38–40 Cameron Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 3428–2500<\/span> | 
www.en.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | No lunch<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Felix.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | MODERN EUROPEAN<\/span> | This Philippe Starck–designed, preposterously fashionable scene atop the Peninsula boasts breathtaking floor-to-ceiling views of Hong Kong. The dinner menu is equally stunning, and while rooted in European cooking, includes bright Asian touches as demonstrated by items such as the grilled beef tenderloin with miso powder. The “Felix Experience” menu features some of the chef’s most creative dishes and changes on a regular basis. The food here is generally good, but expect it to be quite pricey. Many people come just for cocktails or to try out the most celebrated restroom in Asia—the views across Tsim Sha Tsui are superior to those in the restaurant itself. Note that sleeveless shirts and shorts are not allowed for men. | Average main: HK$480<\/span> | 28th fl., The Peninsula Hong Kong,<\/span>19–21 Salisbury Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2696–6778<\/span> | 
hongkong.peninsula.com<\/a><\/span> |Reservations essential<\/span> | No lunch<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

FINDS.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$ | SCANDINAVIAN<\/span> | The name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, and these Nordic countries are where the restaurant draws its inspiration. Finnish chef Jaakko Sorsa explores the flavors of his home country with dishes such as house-smoked salmon and wild game pâté served with rowanberry jelly. The menu expands from there to cover other parts of Scandinavia; be sure to try the Danish smørrebrød open-faced sandwiches and the Daim parfait—a crunchy, sticky, layered dessert based on a popular Swedish chocolate bar. Another reason to love FINDS? The restaurant is a firm supporter of eco-conscious eating, and you’ll find seafood specials on the menu that have been sustainably sourced. | Average main: HK$283<\/span> | The Luxe Manor,<\/span>39 Kimberley Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2522–9318<\/span> | 
www.finds.com.hk<\/a><\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Gaylord.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | INDIAN<\/span> | This was one of the first Indian restaurants on the Hong Kong dining scene, and the atmosphere is still intimate and fun, especially on nights when there’s live music. The food is packed with authentic spices, and there’s an extensive menu for vegetarians. The chowpatty chaat<\/span> is a winning combination of potatoes, chickpeas, and crisp wafers in a spicy dressing, and the chicken tikka masala is almost legendary. Lamb dishes are also done well, especially those in fragrant curry sauce, perfect for scooping up with bits of naan bread, or for spooning over plates of fragrant basmati rice. The restaurant also offers several lunch and dinner menus at excellent value. | Average main: HK$130<\/span> | Ashley Centre,<\/span>23–25 Ashley Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2376–1001<\/span> |Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Go Koong.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | KOREAN<\/span> | One of the best Korean restaurants in town, Go Koong covers extensive ground, from raw meats and seafood that are cooked sizzling on the tabletop grills, to kimchi stews and thick pancakes studded with shrimp, squid, and scallions. The complimentary banchans<\/span> (appetizers) are a feast in themselves, with more than 10 different items available every day. Order the smoked duck-breast salad to start, before moving on to more substantial fare such as the tender beef ribs steamed in whole pumpkin. If you still have room at the end of the meal, remember to try the patbingsoo<\/span>—a giant bowl of crunchy shaved ice laced with sweetened red beans and fresh fruit. | Average main: HK$200<\/span> | 2nd fl., Toyomall,<\/span>94 Granville Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2311–0901<\/span> | Station:<\/span> East Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Hoi King Heen.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | If you’re looking for stellar Cantonese cuisine, this is the place for you. The chefs serve a range of modern classics made from the freshest ingredients and influenced by their reverence for natural flavors. There are excellent—and expensive—dishes on the menu like double-boiled bird’s nest and braised abalone, but the humbler dishes like smoked vegetarian goose and braised beef brisket with pear really steal the show. Hoi King Heen is a great dinner destination, and the lunchtime dim sum menu is also worth checking out. | Average main: HK$200<\/span> | InterContinental Grand Stanford,<\/span>70 Mody Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2731–2883<\/span> | 
www.hongkong.intercontinental.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> East Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Hutong.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | It’s not hard to see why Hutong is one of the hottest tables in Hong Kong: it has some of the most imaginative food in town. Its beautifully decorated dining room at the top of the dramatic One Peking Road Tower overlooks the entire festival of lights that is the Hong Kong island skyline. Best among the sensational selection of regional Chinese creations are the deboned lamb ribs and the crispy soft-shell crab with dried Sichuan peppers. Subtler dishes include fresh abalone carpaccio marinated in spring-onion oil, and delicate scallops tossed with pomelo. Hutong also hosts Sunday brunch, which features a limitless supply of northern Chinese specialties and free-flowing bubbly. | Average main: HK$368<\/span> | 28th fl.,<\/span>1 Peking Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 3428–8342<\/span> | 
www.aqua.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Inakaya.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | JAPANESE<\/span> | On the 101st floor of the ICC building, Inakaya flaunts a jaw-dropping, bird’s-eye view of the city below, but the interior of the restaurant is equally extravagant—the highlight is the specialized robatayaki<\/span> (the Japanese equivalent to barbecue) room, which has a long counter decorated with baskets of fresh ingredients. Choose your meat or vegetables and the chefs will grill them to order and serve them the traditional way, on long wooden paddles. Because robatayaki is served in bite-sized morsels, prices can add up, but it’s a fun and unique experience. If you don’t want to splurge on grilled goods, Inakaya also offers other washoku<\/span> (Japanese cuisines) such as sushi and traditional, multicourse kaiseki<\/span> meals.<\/span> | Average main: HK$600<\/span> | 101st fl., International Commerce Centre,<\/span>1 Austin Rd. W<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon<\/span> | 2972–2666<\/span> | 
www.jcgroup.hk<\/a><\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Ko Lau Wan Hotpot and Seafood Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Anyone seeking an authentic hot-pot experience need look no farther than Ko Lau Wan. Locals flock here for the tender beef and seafood that you cook at your table in a piping-hot pot of broth. The soup selection is quite extensive, but the satay broth and the fish stock with crab are particularly tasty. The owner comes from a fishing village in the New Territories, so there’s no wonder the cuttlefish, shrimp balls, sea urchin, amberjack, and abalone are all so tantalizingly fresh. The adventurous should try the geoduck, a giant clam popular among Hong Kongers, which can be eaten raw with soy sauce and wasabi or slightly cooked in soup. | Average main: HK$200<\/span> | 1st fl.,<\/span>21–23 Hillwood Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 3520–3800<\/span> | No lunch<\/span> | Station:<\/span>Jordan<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Kung Tak Lam.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | VEGETARIAN<\/span> | Health-conscious diners will appreciate the simple Shanghainese vegetarian food served at this popular restaurant in the One Peking Road tower. The menu revels in its vegetarianism, rather than trying to emulate meat; highlights include the Golden Treasure Cold Platter, which includes delicious sweet gluten with mushrooms; the Shanghai-style cold noodles with seven different sauces; and bean-curd dumplings. Good, too, are the sweet panfried cakes. Set-price meals are incredibly cheap, but beware the high prices on the à la carte menu. | Average main: HK$150<\/span> | One Peking Road,<\/span>1 Peking Rd.<\/span>, 7th fl.,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2312–7800<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Lee Keung Kee.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Bubble-shaped egg waffles are a local specialty in Hong Kong, and Lee Keung Kee offers a delicious version. The waffles here are crisp on the outside but soft and cottony on the inside. | Average main: HK$15<\/span> | 178 Nathan Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

FAMILY | <\/span>Main St. Deli.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | AMERICAN<\/span> | Inspired by New York’s 2nd Avenue Deli, with a gleaming tiled interior to match, Main St. Deli introduced traditional Big Apple neighborhood favorites to Hong Kong and found immediate popularity with visitors and locals alike. It continues to make lunch favorites such as pastrami on rye and hot corned-beef sandwiches. Reuben sandwiches and matzo-ball soup satisfy homesick New Yorkers. On the drinks side, kids can indulge in the wide variety of milk shakes, while the grown-ups enjoy the selection of American microbrews. | Average main: HK$180<\/span> | Langham Hong Kong,<\/span>8 Peking Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2132–7898<\/span> | 
hongkong.langhamhotels.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Osteria.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | ITALIAN<\/span> | This place flies under the radar, but it does excellent, home-style Italian fare in a sophisticated yet relaxed and inviting environment. The traditional cuisine has won over many homesick Italian expats. The pizzas and pastas are done with respect to classic recipes—the recommended spaghetti mancini is a satisfyingly hearty dish loaded with fresh seafood and a brandy reduction. Starters also hold their own—the beef carpaccio is tender and flavorful, and the other favorite starter, octopus salad, uses dill and olives to bring out its flavors. | Average main: HK$350<\/span> | Mezzanine fl., Holiday Inn Golden Mile,<\/span>50 Nathan Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2315–1010<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Oyster & Wine Bar.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | SEAFOOD<\/span> | Against the romantic backdrop of Hong Kong’s twinkling harbor, this is the top spot in town for oyster lovers. More than 20 varieties are flown in daily and displayed around the horseshoe oyster bar, ready for shucking. The staff cheerfully explains the characteristics of the available mollusks and guides you to ones to suit your taste. Also on the menu is an excellent lobster bisque, as well as clams, mussels, crab, and fish in various preparations. The Dungeness crab cake is another standout, made with sweet and succulently delicious crabmeat. Wine aficionados are also spoiled for choice here, with the extensive wine selection that lines the walls. | Average main: HK$400<\/span> | 18th fl., Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers,<\/span>20 Nathan Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2739–8707<\/span> | No lunch Mon.–Sat.<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Sabatini.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | ITALIAN<\/span> | Opened by the acclaimed Sabatini restaurateur brothers, this small corner of Italy with sponge-painted walls and wooden furnishings has a cult following among those who crave authentic Roman cuisine. Linguine Sabatini, the house specialty, is prepared according to an original recipe in a fresh tomato-and-garlic marinara sauce, served with an array of seafood. For dessert, try the famous homemade tiramisu or the refreshing wild-berry pudding. | Average main: HK$450<\/span> | 3rd fl., The Royal Garden,<\/span>69 Mody Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2733–2000<\/span> | 
www.rghk.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> |Station:<\/span> East Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Spring Deer.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | The pastel blue and green interior make this Peking duck specialist look like something from 1950s Beijing. The crowd, too, is old-school, which only adds to the experience. You’ll see locals with noodle dishes, stir-fried wok meat dishes, and so forth, but the Peking duck is the showstopper—it might be the best in town. Even the peanuts for snacking, which are boiled to a delectable softness, go above and beyond the call of duty. This place is extremely popular, so it’s best to book your table at least a week in advance. | Average main: HK$170<\/span> | 42 Mody Rd.<\/span>, 1st fl.,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2366–4012, 2366–5839<\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

St. George.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | FRENCH<\/span> | Hullett House—the former marine police headquarters turned into a boutique hotel—was designed with maxed-out luxury in mind, so it’s to be expected that its signature fine-dining French restaurant would be a no-expenses-spared venture. The restaurant is decked out in colonial era–inspired duds, complete with chandeliers and comfy leather sofas. But while the decor pays homage to days gone by, the cuisine is modern, creative, and totally inspired. Guests can look forward to dishes such as tomatoes served eight ways with black garlic, basil, and olive-oil “caviar.” Two tasting menus (four or six courses) are available for those who want the full St. George experience. | Average main: HK$600<\/span> | Hullett House,<\/span>2A Canton Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 3988–0220<\/span> | 
www.hulletthouse.com<\/a><\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | Closed Sun.<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

The Steak House.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE<\/span> | This restaurant, with its lively, informal atmosphere and gleaming harbor views, serves the best steak in the city. You can choose from among 10 steak knives and more than a dozen mustards and rock salts—gimmicky, but fun—but the main event is the perfectly cooked, char-grilled meats. The selection is extensive, including Wagyu from Japan, herb-crusted tenderloin from Argentina, the restaurant’s own dry-aged beef, and other delicious cuts flown in from the United States—and all of it is lovingly seared on the grill. There isn’t a jacket-and-tie policy, but note that shorts, sleeveless shirts, and open shoes are not allowed for gentlemen. | Average main: HK$630<\/span> | InterContinental Hong Kong,<\/span>18 Salisbury Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2313–2323<\/span> | 
hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com<\/a><\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | No lunch weekends<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

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A Spot of Tea<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Legend has it that the first cup dates from 2737 BC, when Camellia sinensis<\/span> leaves fell into water being boiled for Emperor Shenong. He loved the result, tea was born, and so were many traditions.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Historically, when a girl accepted a marriage proposal she drank tea, a gesture symbolizing fidelity (tea plants die if uprooted). Betrothal gifts were known as “tea gifts,” engagements as “accepting tea,” and marriages as “eating tea.” Traditionally the bride and groom kneel before their parents, offering cups of tea in thanks.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Serving tea is a sign of respect. Young people proffer it to their parents or grandparents; subordinates do the same for their bosses. Pouring tea also signifies submission, so it’s a way to say you’re sorry. When you’re served tea, show your thanks by tapping the table with your index and middle fingers.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Even modern medicine acknowledges that tea’s powerful antioxidants reduce the risk of cancer and heart disease. It’s also thought to be such a good source of fluoride that Mao Zedong eschewed toothpaste for a green-tea rinse.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tea Types<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Pu’er tea, which is known here as Bo Lei,<\/span> is the beverage of choice at dim sum places. In fact, another way to say dim sum is yum cha,<\/span> meaning “drink tea.”<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Afternoon tea is another local fixation—neighborhood joints with Formica tables, grumpy waiters, and often, menus written only Chinese. Most people go for nai cha<\/span> made with evaporated milk. A really good cup is smooth, sweet, and hung with drops of fat. An even richer version, cha chow,<\/span> is made with condensed milk. If yuen yueng<\/span> (yin yang, half milk tea and half instant coffee) sounds a bit much, ling-mun cha<\/span> (lemon tea) is also on hand. Don’t forget to order peanut-buttered toast or a pineapple bun, often served with a thick slab of butter sandwiched in the middle.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

The bubble (or boba<\/span>) tea craze may have died down a bit, but you’ll still find plenty street stalls selling the popular Taiwanese drink. These cold brews contain pearly balls of tapioca or coconut jelly. There’s also been a return to traditional teas with chains such as Healthworks, which serves healthy blends in MTR stations all over town.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

All that’s good about British colonial architecture is exemplified in the simple white facade, wooden monsoon shutters, and colonnaded verandas of the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware. More than 600 pieces of delicate antique tea ware from the Tang (618–907) through the Qing (1644–1911) dynasties fill rooms that once housed the commander of the British forces.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

The best place to put your tea theory into practice is at the LockCha Tea House <\/span>(2801–7177<\/span>) in the K.S. Lo Gallery annex of Flagstaff House. It is half shop, half teahouse, so you can sample brews before you buy. | Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Dr., Central<\/span> | 2801–7177<\/span> <\/span>| www.lockcha.com<\/a><\/span> | Weekdays 10–8, weekends 10–9 <\/span>| Station:<\/span> Admiralty MTR, Exit C1.<\/span><\/p>"); document.write("<\/div>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Sun Kee.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | ASIAN<\/span> | This little café might not be the easiest of places to locate, being tucked away in an old complex filled mainly with secondhand camera and wristwatch stores, but it has a cult following, with photos of local celebrity patrons adorning almost every inch of wall space. Most customers come for one thing—the instant noodles blanketed in a rich and creamy melted cheese sauce. These coiled noodles go best with tender slices of grilled pork-neck meat on top of the sauce. It’s not exactly healthy eating, but it’s definitely satisfying. | Average main: HK$42<\/span> | Champagne Court,<\/span>16–20 Kimberley Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2722–4555<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tai Ping Koon.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This is one of the oldest restaurants in Hong Kong, and also one of the first places to serve “soy sauce” Hong Kong–style western cuisine. The decor, staff, and menu seem to have remained unchanged since day one, adding to the nostalgic charm of the place. Steaks are served to dramatic effect on sizzling iron plates and brought to the table by waiters clad in waistcoats. Other menu highlights include the baked Portuguese chicken, the near-perfect stir-fried rice noodles with beef (a classic Hong Kong dish), chicken wings doused in “Swiss sauce” (which has no real Swiss associations), and the enormous baked soufflé that takes 20 minutes to prepare and at least three people to devour. | Average main: HK$100<\/span> | 40 Granville Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span>| 2721–3559<\/span> | 
taipingkoon.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tosca.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | ITALIAN<\/span> | Stuck high up the clouds on the 102nd floor of the towering International Commerce Center, the views at Tosca can be hit-or-miss, depending on how clear the skies are on the day you visit. Fortunately, you’ll be preoccupied with the stunning interiors (complete with pretty fountains) and incredible culinary creations. The menu boasts creative Italian fare like sea tiramisu with red-prawn carpaccio, roasted scallops, caviar, and parsley pasta. There’s also a degustation menu for those who want a taste of Tosca’s finest. Note that sandals, sleeveless shirts, and shorts are not allowed for men. | Average main: HK$450<\/span> | 102nd fl., International Commerce Center,<\/span>1 Austin Rd. W<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon<\/span> | 2263–2270<\/span> | 
www.ritzcarlton.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Kowloon<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Whisk.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | EUROPEAN<\/span> | At the Mira Hotel’s flagship restaurant, seasonal ingredients are turned into creative European dishes designed to impress. The famous suckling pig arrives with a layer of melt-in-your-mouth meat covered in a sheet of deliciously crispy skin—this is one dish worth trying. Be sure to save room for the flaky apple tart. Aside from à la carte options, the restaurant offers a 6- to 10-course degustation menu inspired by global flavors and ingredients. Another bonus is the extensive wine list, which features some of the world’s finest vintages at incredibly reasonable prices. | Average main: HK$600<\/span> | 5th fl., The Mira Hotel,<\/span>118 Nathan Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2315–5999<\/span> | 
www.themirahotel.com<\/a><\/span> | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Yan Toh Heen.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This Cantonese restaurant in the InterContinental Hong Kong sets formal elegance against expansive harbor views, and the food is at the top of its class. Exquisite is hardly the word for the decor, which mixes contemporary with the traditional and encompasses gorgeous details like jade-colored place settings. Dim sum is done well here during lunch, and if you’re looking for more extravagant dishes, there’s a vast selection of seafood that includes seasonal crab, poached lobster, and sea whelk. Some dishes, like Peking duck, need to be ordered at least a day ahead. Note that sleeveless shirts, shorts, and sandals are not allowed for men. | Average main: HK$400<\/span> | InterContinental Hong Kong,<\/span>18 Salisbury Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> | 2313–2323<\/span> |
hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com<\/a><\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Tsim Sha Tsui<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

YAU MA TEI, MONG KOK, AND NORTHERN KOWLOON<\/h2>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok have some of the best cheap eats in town, especially the area of Yau Ma Tei around Jordan Road, which is known as Jordan. Jordan has a large Nepalese population in this neighborhood, so look out for excellent authentic Nepalese and Indian food.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

These areas may not seem like the most tourist-friendly of places (non-English menus, impatient waiters, etc.) , but you’re more likely to score an interesting meal here than anywhere else.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

YAU MA TEI<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Yau Ma Tei’s famed Temple Street is a good place to start. The street hides dai pai dongs <\/span>and wallet-friendly noodle shops amid the many DVD shops and souvenir stores.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Dimdimsum Dimsum Specialty Store.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Hidden away near the old Jordan pier, this little sit-down restaurant has excellent dim sum without the insane queues that plague its more famous competitors. That’s not to say that it doesn’t get packed during mealtimes; thankfully, the venue stays open until 1 am, so you can sneak in for a late-night dinner when the crowds have dissipated. While it does all the classics, it’s the newfangled house creations that are really worth trying. We love the crispy shrimp rice-flour rolls drizzled with soy sauce. The chefs also do black-truffle crab dumplings and golden pastries filled with a combination of apples and cha siu pork. | Average main: HK$20<\/span> | 23 Man Ying St.<\/span>, Jordan,<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> | 2771–7766<\/span> | 
www.dimdimsum.hk<\/a><\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Hing Kee Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Located on a boisterous stretch of Temple Street, this crowded, open-air eatery is the perfect spot to soak in the local atmosphere. The food isn’t amazing, but it’s cheap and offers a wide range of choices. Stick to the wok-tossed stir-fries laced with pungent black-bean sauce or spicy chili salt. Hing Kee is also known for its clay-pot dishes, which are especially comforting during the colder winter months. | Average main: HK$68<\/span> | 14–21 Temple St.<\/span>,<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> | 2384–3647<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | No lunch<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Ho Ho Shanghai Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Just beyond the northern boundary of Tsim Sha Tsui, on a side street off Nathan Road near the Jordan MTR station, this humble place is popular among locals seeking a quick bowl of noodles or a simple, tasty Shanghainese dish. Try a dish of Shanghainese rice with vegetables, topped with your choice of meat, or the fried noodles, soup noodles, and sweet spareribs. | Average main: HK$60<\/span> | 105 Austin Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Jordan<\/span> | 2369–0086<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Jordan<\/span>.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Manakamana Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | NEPALESE<\/span> | For a dose of Indian and Nepalese food, head to Manakamana. The restaurant serves the essentials, like brightly colored curries and meat-filled steamed momo<\/span> dumplings, as well as plenty of vegetarian options. There’s also a decent selection of South Asian beers. Nepalese music completes the atmosphere. | Average main: HK$75<\/span> | 165 Temple St.<\/span>, Jordon,<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> | 2385–2070<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Jordan<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Mido Café.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This old-school cha chaan teng<\/span> (local café) has plenty of charm, since the decor hasn’t changed much since the ’60s. Although prices have gone up somewhat over time, the food still draws plenty of loyal fans. Try the famous baked-pork-chop rice or enjoy a slice of crispy French toast with a cup of milk tea. | Average main: HK$45<\/span> | 63 Temple St.<\/span>,<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> | 2384–6402<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tan Ngan Lo.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Chinese herbal teas are served by the bowlful at this Temple Street institution. Some of the bittersweet beverages may not be to everyone’s taste, but most of them—such as the five-flower tea—are said to have beneficial medicinal properties and are especially refreshing on a hot day. | Average main: HK$10<\/span> | 151 Temple St.<\/span>, Jordan,<\/span> Yau Ma Tei<\/span> | 2384–3744<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Jordan<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Fodor’s Choice | <\/span>Yau Yuan Xiao Jui.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This tiny storefront may look like any other noodle joint, but its humble appearance belies its culinary prowess. The restaurant serves authentic Shaanxi snacks, which can be best described as some of the heartiest and delicious chow that China has to offer. The handmade dumplings are amazing, especially if they’re fattened up with lamb and scallion oil. Then there’s the signature biang biang mien<\/span>, which are extremely long and wide al dente noodle sheets designed to be anointed with chili oil, scallions, and marinated spareribs. Definitely check this place out. | Average main: HK$38<\/span> |Keybond Commercial Building,<\/span>38 Ferry St., entrance on Saigon St.<\/span>,<\/span> Jordan<\/span> | 5300–2682<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Jordan<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Yee Shun Milk Company.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Expect to wait in line if you want to try the famed milk desserts from Yee Shun Milk Company. The velvety-smooth, double-boiled milk pudding is rich and comforting. The ginger-flavored milk pudding has a nice spicy kick, making it the perfect stomach warmer—a must-try if you’re visiting Hong Kong in the wintertime. Chocolate and coffee puddings are also available. | Average main: HK$35<\/span> | 63 Pilkem St.<\/span>,<\/span> Jordan<\/span> | 2730–2799<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

MONG KOK<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("

For the best street snacks in town, look no further than Mong Kok, where you’ll find curry fish balls, among other snacks. The Tung Choi Street vicinity is especially rich in eateries of this type, selling everything from regional specialties like spicy Chongqing noodles to curry fish balls on bamboo skewers and fragrant egg waffles.<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Delicious Food.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | The street stalls of Hong Kong are filled with interesting snacks of all shapes and sorts. The intrepid should trek over to Delicious Food for the infamous stinky tofu. | Average main: HK$10<\/span> | 30 Nullah Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Prince Edward<\/span> | 2142–7468<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Prince Edward<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Fei Jie Snacks Stall.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Dundas Street in Mong Kok is filled with street vendors. The Fei Jie Snacks Stall is one of the best, with its dizzying selection of skewered choices ranging from chewy squid to duck gizzard to pig intestine (best eaten with a squirt of mustard). | Average main: HK$10<\/span> | 55 Dundas St.<\/span>,<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span>| No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Islam Food.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This halal restaurant may not be the prettiest restaurant you’ve ever seen, and you should expect to wait a while for a table (lines get extremely crazy during peak meal hours), but we promise that the panfried beef patties (translated as “veal goulash” on the menu) here are well worth the pilgrimage. The browned pastry packets arrive at the table piping hot and bursting with tender minced beef—good luck trying to stop at just one. Other excellent dishes include the delicious lamb brisket curry, panfried mutton dumplings, and the hot-and-sour soup. | Average main: HK$55<\/span> | 1 Lung Kong Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon City<\/span> | 2382–2822, 2382–8928<\/span> | 
www.islamfood.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Lung Jie Thai Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | THAI<\/span> | Dubbed Little Thailand, Kowloon City is home to some of the best Thai restaurants in town. Lung Jie is one of the more popular choices, and for good reason—the food is excellent and the flavors are authentic. The extensive menu covers all the basics, from stir-fried pad thai noodles to hot-and-sour tom yum soup. For something a little more adventurous, try the raw prawns, which are topped with garlic and chilies and served with a deliciously spicy dipping sauce on the side. | Average main: HK$90<\/span> | 18 Nam Kok Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon City<\/span> | 2382–1348<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

100 Bites.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | BAKERY<\/span> | The miniature cakes here sit like jewels in the pastry case. A lot of the desserts feature Asian ingredients such as green tea and adzuki beans. Japanese-style soufflé pancakes are another house specialty. These fluffy stacks are served with toppings such as fresh strawberries, chocolate shavings, and whipped cream. Sweets aside, 100 Bites also offers pasta-based lunch sets and a tasting menu for dinner. | Average main: HK$35<\/span> | 10th fl., Langham Place Mall,<\/span>8 Argyle St.<\/span>,<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> | 2191–6638<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Pâtisserie Tony Wong.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | BAKERY<\/span> | Opened by one of Hong Kong’s best-known pastry chefs, this takeaway bakery offers a gorgeous collection of classic and original French-style gâteaux. The most famous creation here is the Rose—an elaborate layer cake decorated with edible chocolate petals. If you don’t want to splurge on this signature creation (or if it sells out by the time you arrive), consider equally tasty treats like the green-tea opera, raspberry napoleon, or lemon tart. |Average main: HK$42<\/span> | 74 Fuk Lo Tsun Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon City<\/span> | 2382–6639<\/span> | 
www.patisserietonywong.com<\/a><\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Si Sun.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | AMERICAN<\/span> | One of the pioneers of American fast-food-style dining in Hong Kong, Si Sun still looks and feels like an eatery from the swinging ’60s. The plastic fixtures have stayed the same over the past few decades, and the menu doesn’t seem to have changed much either. Burgers are geared toward local tastes, and the freshly grilled beef patties are sandwiched between two soft buns and topped with ketchup and mayo. Add cheese or a fried egg and your meal will still be a steal. Si Sun also offers pork and fish fillet burgers, as well as a few rice and noodles dishes. | Average main: HK$23<\/span> | 1A Whampoa St.<\/span>, Hung Hom,<\/span> Kowloon City<\/span> | 2362–1279<\/span> | Reservations not accepted<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Hung Hom<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Fodor’s Choice | <\/span>Tim Ho Wan.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This award-winning eatery serves some of the city’s best dim sum. Opened by a former Four Seasons Hotel chef, this humble spot makes all of its shrimp dumplings, rice rolls, and baked cha siu buns fresh to order. It’s top-quality food at dirt-cheap prices. It’s as popular as ever, so go in midafternoon if you want to beat the crowds. | Average main: HK$30<\/span> | 9–11 Fuk Wing St.<\/span>, Sham Shui Po,<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> | 2788–1226<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> |Station:<\/span> Sham Shui Po<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tong Pak Fu.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | For a perfect warm-weather treat, drop by Tong Pak Fu for the Taiwanese-style shaved snow ice. Blocks of flavored ice (chocolate, milk, fruit, and many others) are put into a special machine that shaves them into thin, ribbonlike sheets that fold up into a mountainous heap. The texture is richer and denser than regular shaved ice. This store also offers other Chinese desserts, including red-bean soup and sesame-filled dumplings. | Average main: HK$25<\/span> | 99 Hak Po St.<\/span>,<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> | 2659–2529<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tso Choi Koon.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | If you have a delicate constitution, take a pass on this home-style Cantonese restaurant. Tso Choi (which literally translates as “rough dishes”) is not everyone’s cup of tea. Offal lovers, however, might be interested in trying some of the house favorites: fried pig tripe, fried pig brain (served as an omelet), double-boiled pig brain—you get the idea. The older Hong Kong generation still likes this stuff; younger folks may demur. The wary can opt for creamy congee, fried chicken, or simple stir-fries. | Average main: HK$50<\/span> | 17A Nga Tsin Wai Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon City<\/span> | 2383–7170<\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> |Station:<\/span> Mong Kok<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

KOWLOON BAY<\/h3>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Siu Shun Village Cuisine.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | This is one of the few restaurants in town specializing in cuisine from Shunde, an area in the Pearl River Delta. A collection of tanks at the front of the restaurant display various types of freshwater fish, which can be ordered steamed, fried, baked, or sautéed. Steamed fish in broth is one of the best ways to enjoy the selection. Sautéed fresh milk is one of Shunde’s most renowned dishes—at Siu Shun, it’s made with fresh soy milk, egg whites, fresh prawns, and conpoy<\/span> (dried scallops). Don’t skip dessert: the double-boiled sweetened milk is reminiscent of a rich, custardy pudding and is a perfectly comforting closure. | Average main: HK$88<\/span> | 7th fl.,<\/span>38 Wang Chiu Rd.<\/span>,<\/span> Kowloon Bay<\/span> | 2798–9738<\/span> | 
www.siushun.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Kowloon Bay<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

THE NEW TERRITORIES<\/h2>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Sai Kung in the New Territories is worth a visit, if only for a meal. The many restaurants lining the main street and the giant fish tanks with the dizzying selection of fresh fish, crabs, prawns, clams, and oysters are a sight to behold. Point to your catch of choice and have the kitchen cook it up in any way your stomach desires (stir-fried with spicy salt is the no-fail way to go).<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

AJ’s Sri Lankan Cuisine.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | SRI LANKAN<\/span> | Sai Kung may be best known for its local seafood joints, but we’ll happily shine a light on the city’s only Sri Lankan restaurant. Housed in a quaint cottage, AJ’s rolls out regional delicacies from the South Asian island country—if you haven’t tried it before, Sri Lankan cuisine shares similarities with its neighboring countries, though there are some distinct differences in the use of spices and cooking techniques. Definitely order the moju<\/span>—fried eggplant with onions and chilies. We’re also fans of any string hopper (shredded, steamed rice-flour dough) dish that’s tossed in a wok with diced meats and spices. | Average main: HK$160<\/span> | 14 Sai Kung Hoi Pong St.<\/span>, Sai Kung,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 2792–2555<\/span> | 
www.aj.srilankan.hk<\/a><\/span> | No lunch weekdays<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Honeymoon Dessert.<\/span>
"); document.write("$ | CHINESE<\/span> | Though it’s expanded across Asia, Honeymoon Dessert’s first-ever store in Sai Kung still draws droves of loyal and new fans alike. The store sells homemade traditional Chinese desserts such as black-sesame sweet soup and the refreshing mango-pomelo sweet soup. It also does newfangled items, including durian pancakes and glutinous rice dumplings dusted with desiccated coconut and filled with fresh mango. In the summer, don’t miss out on the wide selection of cooling grass jelly creations. | Average main: HK$35<\/span> | 9–10 ABC Po Tung Rd.<\/span>, Sai Kung,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 2791–7387<\/span> |
www.honeymoon-dessert.com<\/a><\/span> | No credit cards<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Hang Hau<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

FAMILY | <\/span>Jaspa’s.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | INTERNATIONAL<\/span> | The food at Jaspa’s is delicious and filling, perfect after a day walking in the hills or enjoying the beach. The international menu is wide-ranging enough to satisfy all tastes. The chicken and Peking duck fajitas arrive on your table sizzling hot; grilled snapper with Asian herbs and Parmesan-crusted rack of lamb are also delicious. Enjoy your meal indoors or opt for a table on the alfresco terrace. | Average main: HK$190<\/span> | 13 Sha Tsui Path<\/span>, Sai Kung,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 2792–6388<\/span> | 
www.casteloconcepts.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Hang Hau<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Loaf On.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$ | SEAFOOD<\/span> | Off Sai Kung’s main drag, this hidden gem stands out as one of the finer seafood joints for those in the know. Unlike its big and boisterous competitors, this tiny store has no flashy fish tanks outside and the number of seats is extremely limited, so it’s best to book in advance. The food, however, is a cut above the rest. Try the fish soup—a milky-white broth with a hint of sweetness. There’s also the famous deep-fried abalone dusted in chili and salt. Aside from seafood, Loaf On also serves an amazing deep-fried tofu dish that’s crisp and golden on the outside and silken, soft, and supple in the center. | Average main: HK$200<\/span> | 49 See Cheung St.<\/span>, Sai Kung,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 2792–9966<\/span> | Reservations essential<\/span> | Station:<\/span> Hang Hau<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Sha Tin 18.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$ | CHINESE<\/span> | If you’re exploring the Sha Tin neighborhood, consider visiting Sha Tin 18 for a pan-Chinese feast. The restaurant is equipped with several open kitchens, each with its own culinary specialty. Northern Chinese dishes are best, and you’ll find a range of homespun noodles and dumplings, but the traditional Peking duck, which is roasted in-house and served as three separate courses, is also excellent. If you’re dropping by for lunch, the extensive dim sum menu should keep you well sated. Save room for dessert, though, because the selection—which includes candied pomelo crème brûlée and pink peppercorn ice cream—is definitely more innovative than your average Chinese eatery. | Average main: HK$258<\/span> | Hyatt Regency Hong Kong,<\/span>18 Chak Cheung St.<\/span>, Sha Tin,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 3723–1234<\/span> | 
www.hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> University<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

Tung Kee Seafood Restaurant.<\/span>
"); document.write("$$$ | SEAFOOD<\/span> | Lobsters, clams, abalone, crabs, prawns, fish, and everything else from the deep blue sea is here for the tasting on Sai Kung’s picturesque harbor. Crustaceans and fish are quickly cooked by steaming and wok frying, but are first presented whole, leaving no doubt as to the freshness of your food. A quick look inside the tank is like a lesson in marine biology. Pick your favorites, and leave the rest to the chef. | Average main: HK$300<\/span> | 96–102 Man Nin St.<\/span>, Sai Kung,<\/span> New Territories<\/span> | 2792–7453<\/span> | 
www.tungkee.com.hk<\/a><\/span> | Station:<\/span> Hang Hau<\/span> .<\/p>"); document.write(""); document.write("

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