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Manic development is changing Lantau, but the island is still known as the “lungs of Hong Kong” because of the abundant forests, relative dearth of skyscrapers, and laid-back attractions—beaches, fishing villages, and hiking trails. At Ngong Ping, a mini-theme park sits at the base of the island’s most famous sight, the Tian Tan Buddha. Hong Kong Disneyland sits on the northeast coast, near the airport. At 147 square km (57 square miles), Lantau is almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island, so there’s room for all this development, and the island remains a welcome green getaway.

 

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THE TERRITORY

Lantau is connected to Kowloon by the lengthy Tsing Ma Bridge. Most Lantau roads lead to and from Tung Chung, the new high-rise town on the north shore, just west of the bridge and close to Hong Kong International Airport. The Tung Chung Road winds through the mountains and connects northern Lantau with the southern coast. Here the South Lantau Road stretches from the town of Mui Wo (where ferries from Central arrive) in the east to Tai O in the west, passing Cheung Sha Beach and Ngong Ping.

TOURS TO TAKE IT IN

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch.
Candy-pink dolphins might sound like something Disney cooked up, but Lantau’s cutest residents are the endangered species Sousa chinensis, native to the Pearl River estuary. Only 60 or so are left in Hong Kong, but experienced ecotourism company Hong Kong Dolphinwatch has a 97% sighting rate on its four-hour cruises. The price is HK$420, which includes return transportation to Tsim Sha Tsui. | 2984–1414 | www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Splendid Tours.
To see Lantau’s big sights whistle-stop style, try Splendid Tours. A daylong trip (HK$800, including lunch) takes in the Tsing Ma Bridge, Tai O Village, and Ngong Ping. | 2316–2151 | www.splendid.hk.

QUICK BITES

Bahçe Turkish Restaurant.
You’re spoiled for choice on the Mui Wo waterfront, but this cozy Turkish café is a good bet. You can make a meal out of several meze (small snacks)—the flaky phyllo triangles are delicious—or beef up with a kebab. At night the place is more like a bar. | Mui Wo Centre,3 Ngan Wan Rd., Mui Wo, Lantau |2984–0222.

The Stoep.
For lunch on Cheung Sha Beach—or on Lantau in general—everyone agrees: these outdoor tables facing the beach (the name means “patio”) is the place. It’s run by South Africans, and the food’s a mix of Mediterranean standards and South African–style barbecued meat—try the mixed grill. | 32 Lower Cheung Sha Village Rd., Lantau | 2980–2699 | www.thestoep.com.

Taste.
If you’re hiking, stop off in Tung Chung for provisions. Deli counters in the huge branch of the local supermarket Taste have sushi, sandwiches, salads, baked goods, and fruit. | Citygate Mall,20 Tat Tung Rd., Lantau | 2109–4500.

GETTING AROUND

The speediest way to get to Lantau from Central is the MTR’s Tung Chung line (HK$24), which takes about half an hour. Far more pleasant is the 35-minute ferry from Central to Mui Wo (get a window seat for the views).

New World First Ferry.
These ferries to Mui Wo depart every 30 to 40 minutes from Central’s Pier 6. The cost is HK$15.20 to HK$42.90 each way. | 2131–8181 |www.nwff.com.hk.

Ngong Ping 360.
The most direct (and daring) way to reach the giant statue and monastery at Ngong Ping is on the Ngong Ping 360, a view-filled 25-minute gondola ride that departs from a terminal adjacent to the MTR station in Tung Chung. If you’re not scared of heights, splurge on one of the “crystal” cabins, which have glass floors for the best views. | 3666–0606 | www.np360.com.hk | HK$105 one way; HK$150 round-trip | Weekdays 10–6, weekends 9–6:30.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

FAMILY | Hong Kong Disneyland.
Though Hong Kong’s home to Mickey Mouse is tame compared with other Magic Kingdoms, it’s fast bringing Mai Kei Lo Su—as the world’s most famous mouse is known locally—to a mainland audience. Younger kids will find plenty of amusement, but their older siblings and parents will have to settle for just one thrill ride, Space Mountain. If you need to visit a theme park in Hong Kong, Ocean Park in Aberdeen is a better bet. | Fantasy Rd., Lantau Island |park.hongkongdisneyland.com | HK$450 | Daily 9–9 | Station: Disneyland Resort.

Fodor’s Choice | Tian Tan Buddha.
Hong Kongers love superlatives, even if making them true requires strings of qualifiers. So the Tian Tan Buddha, also known as the Big Buddha, is the world’s largest Buddha—that’s seated, located outdoors, and made of bronze. Just know the vast silhouette is impressive. A set of 268 steep stairs leads to the lower podium, essentially forcing you to stare up at all 202 tons of Buddha as you ascend. At the top, cool breezes and fantastic views over Lantau Island await.

Highlights

Po Lin Monastery. It’s hard to believe today, but from its foundation in 1927 through the early ’90s, this monastery was virtually inaccessible by road. These days, it’s at the heart of Lantau’s biggest attraction. The monastery proper has a gaudy orange temple complex. Still, it’s the Buddha people come for.

Wisdom Path. This peaceful path runs beside 38 halved tree trunks arranged in an infinity shape on a hillside. Each is carved with Chinese characters that make up the Heart Sutra, a 5th-century Buddhist prayer that expresses the doctrine of emptiness. The idea is to walk around the path—which takes five minutes—and reflect. Follow the signposted trail to the left of the Buddha.

Ngong Ping Village. People were fussing about this attraction before its first stone was laid. Ngong Ping Village is a moneymaking add-on to the Tian Tan Buddha. Walking With Buddha is intended to be a 20-minute-long educational stroll through the life of Siddhartha Gautama, the first Buddha, but it’s more of a multimedia extravaganza that shuns good taste with such kitsch as a self-illuminating Bodhi tree and piped-in incense. No cost has been spared in the dioramas that fill the seven galleries—ironic, given that each represents a stage of the Buddha’s path to enlightenment and the eschewing of material wealth.

Tips

You can get here on the Ngong Ping 360 gondola from a terminal adjacent to the MTR station in Tung Chung or via Bus 2 from Mui Wo or Bus 23 from Tung Chung.

The only way to the upper level, right under the Buddha, is through an underwhelming museum inside the podium. You only get a couple of feet higher up.

The booth at the base of the stairs is only for tickets for lunch—wandering around the Buddha is free.

The monastery’s vegetarian restaurant is a clattering canteen with uninspiring fare. Pick up sandwiches at the Citygate Mall, Tung Chung, or eat at a restaurant in Ngong Ping Village.

| Ngong Ping, Lantau Island | 2985–5248 | www.plm.org.hk | Monastery and path free. Walking with Buddha: HK$40 | Buddha daily 10–5:30, monastery and path daily 8–6 | Station: Tung Chung, Exit B.

WORTH NOTING

Cheung Sha Beach.
Three kilometers (2 miles) of golden sand make Cheung Sha Beach one of Hong Kong’s longest stretches of sand. It gets breezy at this spot 8 km (5 miles) southwest of Mui Wo, so it’s popular with windsurfers. Upper Cheung Sha Beach is equipped for barbecues, and there is also a refreshment stand. Sunset here is a perfect end to a sun-drenched day. TIP There are only 50 taxis on the entire island, which you should keep in mind when things get busy. To get here, take the ferry from Central’s Pier 6 to Mui Wo, and then hop on Bus 1 or 2 for about 25 minutes. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. | South Lantau Rd., Lantau Island | 2980–2114.

Lantau Peak.
The most glorious views of Lantau—and beyond—are from atop Lantau Peak, but at 3,064 feet, the mountaintop experience is not for the faint-hearted. The ascent up the mountain that locals call Fung Wong Shan requires a strenuous 7½-mile hike west from Mui Wo, or you can begin at the Po Lin Monastery—still a demanding two hours. You can also take Bus 23 to a trail that is closer to the summit, and climb from Stage 3 of the Lantau Trail. The most striking views are at sunrise, particularly between December and February, when the air is dry and the sky is clear. | Lantau Island.

Mui Wo.
Mui Wo is a sleepy little town, but it has some good waterfront restaurants. Silvermine Bay Beach, a pleasant sandy stretch, is a half-mile northeast of the ferry pier. A gentle uphill trail leads to the Silvermine Caves and Waterfall, the small 19th-century mine that gave the bay its English name. | Lantau Island.

DID YOU KNOW?: Lantau is connected to the Kowloon Peninsula by the world’s longest rail-carrying suspension bridge, the 4,518-foot Tsing Ma Bridge. Airport Express and MTR trains run through the sheltered lower level; a highway runs on top, affording stunning views of the Pearl River Delta to the west.

Tai O. Tucked away on the western end of Lantau, this fishing village inhabited largely by the tanka (boat people), some of whom still live in stilt houses, is a great place to spend a few hours. There’s a temple dedicated to Kwan Tai, god of war, that was established in the 15th century. Remains of salt pans line part of the shoreline, and a look seaward sometimes rewards you with a sighting of a rare Hong Kong pink dolphin. The 1902 Tai O Police Station, on the village’s southwest tip, has been restored and converted into the Tai O Heritage Hotel, a great place for tea or a meal. | Lantau Island.