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With rustic villages, incense-filled temples, green hiking trails, and pristine beaches, the New Territories are a favorite Hong Kong getaway. Sha Tin, Tuen Mun, and other “new towns” house more than half a million residents apiece, making them feel like their own cities. Even so, it’s still easy to get away from the urban congestion, visit lush parks, and glimpse traditional rural life in restored walled villages and ancestral clan halls.
THE TERRITORY
The New Territories borders mainland China to the north. Sai Kung Peninsula lies to the east. Places worth visiting are a fair distance from each other, so day trips here take some planning. It’s best to choose two or three sights to visit in a day, allowing 15–30 minutes of travel time between each, depending on whether you’re going by bus or taxi. Note that fewer people speak English away from the city center.
QUICK BITES
Sai Kung Town’s waterfront has a plethora of outdoor seafood restaurants.
Chuen Kee Seafood.
If you love fish, head straight for the Sai Kung waterfront to get a taste of the village’s seafood offerings along what’s known as “Seafood Street.” The low-key string of eateries here serve up all manner of fresh feasts—choose your lunch from the tanks and have it grilled or panfried to order. For one of the best bets, snag a seat at Chuen Kee Seafood. | 51–55 Hoi Pong St., Sai Kung, Lantau | 2791–1195.
Honeymoon Dessert Shop.
If you have a sweet tooth, drop by the famous Honeymoon Dessert Shop for such sugary delights as mango pudding, chilled sago coconut soup, and banana crepes. Go on, you deserve it. | 9-10ABC Po Tung Rd., Sai Kung, New Territories | 2792–4991 | www.honeymoon-dessert.com.
GETTING AROUND
Between the bus and MTR, you can get close to many sights. Set off on the MTR from Central to Tsuen Wan; from there, taxis, buses, and minibuses will take you to places such as the Yuen Yuen Institute and Tai Mo Shan. For Sha Tin and other spots in the east, take the MTR to Kowloon Tong; transfer to the East Rail line and head to Sha Tin station. To reach the Sai Kung Peninsula, take the MTR from Central to Choi Hung, then the green Minibus 1A to Sai Kung Town.
To tour at your own pace, consider hiring a car and driver.
Ace Hire Car.
This rental agency charges HK$250 per hour for a four-seater Benz. | 2893–0541 | www.acehirecar.com.hk.
TAKING IT IN
The best way to see some of the smaller villages is on an organized tour. Gray Line’s five-hour Heritage Tour (US$60) takes you to the Man Mo Temple, Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees, and other cultural sights. Gray Line also has half-day tours that stop at the Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees and Tai Po Market, among other places in the New Territories.
Walk Hong Kong.
Run by Gabi Baumgartner and Marco Foehn—two expats who have decades of insight into Hong Kong’s history and culture—Walk Hong Kong offers walking and hiking tours all over the territory. For maritime and military history buffs, the team counts World War II specialist Martin Heyes among its guides, who walks travelers through the city’s past conflict zones. There are also several birdwatching tours, as well as an informative half-day New Territories Heritage Walk that explores walled villages, ancient pagodas and ancestral clan halls. | 9187–8641 | www.walkhongkong.com | Rates from HK$450 per person.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Fodor’s Choice | Hong Kong Heritage Museum.
This fabulous museum is Hong Kong’s largest, yet it still seems a well-kept secret: chances are you’ll have most of its 12 massive galleries to yourself. They ring an inner courtyard, which pours light into the lofty entrance hall.
Highlights
The New Territories Heritage Hall is packed with local history—6,000 years of it. See life as it was in beautiful dioramas of traditional villages—one on land, the other on water (with houses on stilts). The last gallery documents the rise of massive urban New Towns.
In the T.T. Tsui Gallery of Chinese Art, exquisite antique Chinese glass, ceramics, and bronzes fill hushed second-floor rooms. The curators have gone for quality over quantity. Look for the 3½-foot-tall terra-cotta Horse and Rider, a beautiful example of the figures enclosed in tombs in the Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 220). The Tibetan religious statues and thankga paintings are unique in Hong Kong.
The Cantonese Opera Heritage Hall is all singing, all dancing, and utterly hands-on. The symbolic costumes, tradition-bound stories, and stylized acting of Cantonese opera can be impenetrable: the museum provides simple explanations and stacks of artifacts, including century-old sequined costumes that put Vegas to shame. Don’t miss the virtual makeup display, where you get your on-screen face painted like an opera character’s.
Kids love the Children’s Discovery Gallery, where hands-on activities for 4- to 10-year-olds include putting a broken “archaeological find” together. The Hong Kong Toy Story charts more than a century of local toys.
Tips
Look for the audio tours in English, which are available for special exhibitions.
There’s lots of ground to cover: prioritize the New Territories Heritage, the T.T. Tsui Gallery, and the Cantonese Opera Halls, all permanent displays, then move on to the temporary history and art exhibitions if time permits.
The museum is a five-minute signposted walk from Che Kung Temple station. If the weather’s good, walk back along the leafy riverside path that links the museum with Sha Tin station, in New Town Plaza mall, 15 minutes away.
| 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, New Territories | 2180–8188 | www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk | HK$10; free on Wed. | Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 10–6; weekends and holidays 10–7 | Station: Che Kung, Exit A; Sha Tin, Exit A.
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery.
You climb some 400 steps to reach this temple, but look on the bright side: for each step you get about 32 Buddhas. The uphill path through dense vegetation is lined with 500 life-size golden Buddhas in all kinds of positions. Be sure to bring along water and insect repellent. Prepare to be dazzled inside the main temple, where walls are stacked with gilded ceramic statuettes. There are actually nearly 13,000 here, made by Shanghai artisans and donated by worshippers over the decades. Kwun Yam, goddess of mercy, is one of several deities honored in the crimson-walled courtyard.
Look southwest on a clear day and you can see nearby Amah Rock, which resembles a woman with a child on her back. Legend has it that this formation was once a faithful fisherman’s wife who climbed the mountain every day to wait for her husband’s return, not knowing he’d drowned. Tin Hau, goddess of the sea, took pity on her and turned her to stone.
The temple is in the foothills of Sha Tin, in the central New Territories. Take Exit B out of Sha Tin station, walk down the pedestrian ramp, and take the first left onto Pai Tau Street. Keep to the right-hand side of the road and follow it around to the gate where the signposted path starts. TIP Don’t be confused by the big white buildings on the left of Pai Tau Road. They are ancestral halls, not the temple. | 221 Pai Tau Village, Sha Tin,New Territories | Free | Daily 9–5:30 | Station: Sha Tin, Exit B.
WORTH NOTING
The Chinese University of Hong Kong Art Museum.
Located in the Institute of Chinese Studies building, the museum has paintings and calligraphy from the Qing period to modern times. There are also collections of bronze seals, carved jade flowers, and ceramics from South China. Take the East Rail line to University station, then a campus bus or taxi. |Institute of Chinese Studies Bldg., Tai Po Rd., Sha Tin, New Territories | 3943–7416 | www.cuhk.edu.hk/ics/amm | Free | Mon.– Sat. 10–5, Sun. 1–5 |Station: University, Exit D.
Ching Chung Koon Taoist Temple.
This temple has room after room of altars filled with the heady scent of incense. On one side of the main entrance is a cast-iron bell with a circumference of about 5 feet—all large monasteries in ancient China rang such bells at daybreak to wake the monks and nuns for a day of work in the rice fields. On the other side of the entrance is a huge drum that was used to call the workers back in the evening. Inside, some rooms are papered with small pictures; the faithful pay to have these photos displayed so they can see their dearly departed as they pray. Hundreds of dwarf shrubs, ornamental fishponds, and pagodas bedeck the grounds. The temple sits adjacent to the Ching Chung MTR Light Rail station near the town of Tuen Mun. The entrance isn’t obvious, so ask for directions. | Tsing Chung Koon Rd., Tuen Mun, New Territories | 2462–1507 | Station: Siu Hong, Exit B.
Hong Kong Wetland Park.
This vast wetland reserve is home to numerous species of native wildlife, including Hong Kong’s own star crocodile, Pui Pui. The reserve has several walks, many suitable for families with children, including a boardwalk through a mangrove habitat and a butterfly garden. The park has a visitor center, which includes an auditorium and several indoor galleries, as well as a café, play area, and souvenir shop. | Wetland Park Rd., Tin Shui Wai, New Territories |2708–8885, 3152–2666 | www.wetlandpark.com | HK$30 | Wed.–Mon. 10–5 | Station: Tin Shui Wai.
Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees.
People from throughout Hong Kong come to these two banyan trees to make wishes and offerings. Some burn joss sticks and incense; others used to throw an orange—tied to a wish written on a piece of paper—up into a tree (if it caught on a branch the wish would come true). Unfortunately, the weight of the oranges caused several branches to fall off and the practice has ended. Now, when people visit the trees—often during exam time or when the health of a loved one is in jeopardy—they tie the joss paper onto nearby wooden racks. Take the East Rail line to Tai Po Market train station, then take Bus 64K or 64P, or Minibus 25K. | Lam Tsuen Village, New Territories | 2638–3678.
Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall.
In the far northern New Territories—just south of Shenzhen—a small unmarked path in the village of Sheung Shui leads to this ancestral hall. It was built in 1751 for the rich and prosperous Liu clan, and was one of few such halls that survived the Cultural Revolution. A restoration preserved the spectacular original roof and ornamentation, but substituted concrete walls to take the weight off rickety pillars—at some cost to the site’s aesthetic unity. Take the East Rail Line to Sheung Shui, then Bus 70X, and alight at the Sheung Shui Bus Terminus on Jockey Club Road. | Mun Hau Tsuen, Sheung Shui, New Territories | 2208–4400 | Free | Wed., Thurs., and weekends 9–1 and 2–5 | Station: Sheung Shui.
Man Mo Temple.
Adjacent to the Tai Po Market is the 100-year-old temple that was built to commemorate the establishment of the town of Tai Po. As you draw near, you’ll smell the incense offered by worshippers. | Fu Shin St., Tai Po, New Territories | www.amo.gov.hk | Free | Daily 9–6 | Station: Tai Wo.
Pak Tai Temple.
In the 19th century Cheung Chau Island was a haven for pirates like the notorious Cheung Po Tsai, whose treasure cave is reportedly on the island’s southwest tip. The temple here is dedicated to Pak Tai, the god of the sea, who is supposed to have rid the island of pirates. The renovated temple originally dates to 1783, when an image of Pak Tai was brought to appease the spirits of people killed by pirates, thought to be the source of bubonic plague outbreaks. Apparently he did the trick: he remains the island’s favorite deity. Beside the main altar are four whalebones from the nearby sea. TIP Make a full day of your trip to Cheung Chau, a gorgeous island with several temples. A walk around the island takes in several temples and the pirate cave. New World First Ferry sails to Cheung Chau twice hourly from Central Ferry Pier 5. Normal ferries take 55 minutes, fast ones 35. Turn left from the Cheung Chau ferry pier and walk ½ km (¼ mile) along waterfront Praya Street, until you see the temple to your right, over a playground. |End of Pak She St., Cheung Chau Island, New Territories | 2981–0663 | www.ctc.org.hk | Free | Daily 7–5.
Sai Kung Peninsula.
To the east of Sha Tin, the Sai Kung Peninsula is home to one of Hong Kong’s most beloved nature preserves, Sai Kung Country Park. It has several hiking trails that wind through majestic hills overlooking the water. The hikes through the hills surrounding High Island Reservoir are also spectacular. Seafood restaurants dot the waterfront in Sai Kung Town as well as the tiny fishing village of Po Toi O in Clear Water Bay. At Sai Kung Town you can rent a sampan that will take you to one of the many islands in the area for a day at the beach. Take the MTR to Diamond Hill (Exit C2) and take Bus 92 to Sai Kung Town. Instead of taking the bus, you can also catch a taxi along Clearwater Bay Road, which will take you into forested areas and land that’s only partially developed, with Spanish-style villas overlooking the sea. This excursion will take a full day, and you should only go if it’s sunny. | Sai Kung Peninsula,Kowloon.
Sam Tung Uk Museum.
A walled Hakka village from 1786 was saved from demolition to create this museum. It’s in the middle of industrial Tsuen Wan, in the western New Territories, and its quiet courtyards and small interlocking chambers contrast with the nearby residential towers. It looks more like a large home than a village—not surprisingly, the name translates as “Three Beam House.” Rigid symmetry dictated the construction: the ancestral hall and two common chambers form a central axis flanked by private areas. Traditional furniture and farm tools are on display. TIP Head through the courtyards and start your visit in the exhibition hall at the back, where a display gives helpful background on Hakka culture and pre-industrial Tsuen Wan—explanations are sparse elsewhere. You can also try on a Hakka hat. | 2 Kwu Uk La., Tsuen Wan, New Territories | 2411–2001| www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–6 | Station: Tsuen Wan, Exit B3.
Sha Tin.
Whether you enter Sha Tin by road or rail, you’ll be amazed to find this metropolis in the middle of the New Territories. One of the so-called “new towns,” Sha Tin underwent a population explosion starting in the mid-1980s that transformed it from a town of 30,000 to a city of more than a half million. It’s home to Sha Tin Park and the fantastic Hong Kong Heritage Museum, which is devoted to Chinese history, art, and culture. | New Territories.
Sha Tin Racecourse.
This popular race track is newer (it opened in 1978) and larger (the capacity is over 83,000) than the one in Happy Valley, and it’s a spectacular place to watch a race. It’s one of the world’s most modern courses and, as such, is the venue for all championship events. Racing season is from September through June. The racecourse has its own stop on the MTR East Rail line that is open only on race days. | Near Tai Po Rd., Sha Tin, New Territories | 2966–6520| www.entertainment.hkjc.com | HK$10 | Station: Racecourse.
Tai Fu Tai Mansion.
It’s worth the trek almost to the mainland China border to visit this 19th-century home of merchant and philanthropist Man Chung-luen. The surefire path to becoming a big shot in Imperial China was passing civil service examinations, but few people from Hong Kong—which was hicksville at the time—made the grade. Man Chung-luen proved the exception in 1875. Congratulatory tablets from the emperor hang in the house’s entrance hall. The room layout, beautifully decorated doors, and roof ridges are all characteristic of Qing-dynasty architecture. Stained glass and rococo moldings reflect European influences, a result of the British victory over China in the Opium War of 1841. Women could watch guests unobserved from an upper gallery, which also has an enclosed courtyard for stargazing, charmingly called a “moon playing chamber.” To reach the house, cross over the road outside Sheung Shui station (Exit A1) and take Bus 76K toward Yuen Long; alight at San Tin, 5½ km (3½ miles) away. The five-minute walk to the mansion is signposted from there. Alternatively, get a taxi from the station—one way costs HK$40. | Wing Ping Tsuen, San Tin, New Territories | www.amo.gov.hk | Free | Wed.–Mon. 9–1 and 2–5.
Tai Mo Shan.
The name means Big Hat Mountain, and at 3,140 feet this volcanic outcropping in Tai Mo Shan Country Park is Hong Kong’s highest point. The “Foggy Mountain” is covered in clouds almost daily, but when the mist—and pollution—clears, the view stretches all the way to Hong Kong Island. To reach the visitor center, take Bus 51 from Tsuen Wan and get off at the Country Park bus stop. Walk 10 minutes up Tai Mo Shan Road. | Tai Mo Shan Rd., Tsuen Wan, New Territories | www.afcd.gov.hk.
Tai Po Market.
The name means “shopping place,” which it more than lives up to. In the heart of the region’s breadbasket, this utilitarian town’s main open-air market is a feast for the eyes, with baskets of lush green vegetables, freshly cut meat hanging from great racks overhead, fish swimming in tanks awaiting selection, and all types of baked and steamed treats. To reach the village, take the MTR East Rail Line to the Tai Po Market stop. | Fu Shin St., Tai Po, New Territories | Station: Tai Po Market.
Tap Mun Island.
A couple of temples and shrines dot what’s also known as Grass Island, and beautiful beaches line the shore. Most people have a seafood lunch at the New Hon Kee Seafood Restaurant, run by Loi Lam, a stocky, vivacious fellow who speaks fluent English with a fantastic accent he picked up in Manchester, England. A sampan from Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung Country Park will speed you to the island. | New Territories.
Yuen Yuen Institute.
These pavilions and prayer halls, founded in 1950, bring together the three streams of Chinese thought: Buddhism (which emphasizes nirvana and physical purity), Taoism (nature and inner peace), and Confucianism (following the practical and philosophical beliefs of Confucius). The main three-tier red pagoda is a copy of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, and houses 60 statues representing the full cycle of the Chinese calendar—you can look for the one that corresponds to your birth year and make an incense offering. To reach the institute, take the MTR to Tsuen Wan (Exit B1) and walk five minutes to Shiu Wo Street, then catch green Minibus 81 to the institute. | Lo Wai Rd., Sam Dip Tam, New Territories | Tsuen Wan, China | 2492–2220 |www.yuenyuen.org.hk | Free | Daily 9–5 | Station: Tsuen Wan, Exit B1.
