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Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning Updated by Kate Springer Enter the desperate, smoky atmosphere of a Chinese casino, where frumpy players bet an average of five times more than the typical Vegas gambler. Sit down next to grandmothers who smoke like chimneys while playing baccarat—the local game of choice—with visiting high rollers. Then step out of the climate-controlled chill and into tropical air that embraces you like a warm, balmy hug. Welcome to Macau. The many contrasts in this tiny enclave of 555,000 people serve as reminders of how different cultures have embraced one another’s traditions for hundreds of years. Though Macau’s population is 95% ethnic Chinese, there are still-vibrant pockets of Portuguese and Filipino expats. And some of the thousands of Eurasians—who consider themselves neither Portuguese nor Chinese, but something in between—can trace the intermarriage of their ancestors back a century or two. Macau’s old town, while dominated by the buildings, squares, and cobblestone alleyways of colonial Portugal, is tinged with eastern influences as well. In Macau you can spend an afternoon exploring Buddhist temples before feasting on a dinner of bacalhau com natas (dried codfish with a cream sauce), grilled African chicken (spicy chicken in a coconut-peanut broth—a classic Macanese dish), Chinese lobster with scallions, or fiery prawns infused with Indian and Malaysian flavors. Wash everything down with vinho verde, the crisp young wine from northern Portugal, and top it all off with a traditional Portuguese pastel de nata (egg-custard tart) and dark, thick espresso. TOP REASONS TO GODiscover the Ruins of São Paulo. The church facade, all that remains of a former center of learning, is a symbol of Macau. Take a Seat in Senado Square. A bench here is the perfect perch from which to watch Macau’s comings and goings while admiring the colonial surroundings. Explore the A-Ma Temple. It’s steeped in Macau’s culture and history. Search for the Lucky Money Pool, then wash your hands in the blessed water before heading to the casinos. Place Your Bets. Even if you don’t gamble, take a peek inside the Hotel Lisboa, a classic Macau landmark, or the newer and splashier Venetian Macao, a sprawling complex where gondoliers glide down indoor canals and luxury shopping abounds. Say “Spaaahhh.” Macau’s spas have ultra-indulgent treatments and world-class facilities—with prices to match. But for many the pampering is well worth the expense. GETTING ORIENTEDMacau, a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of the People’s Republic of China, is on the western bank of the Pearl River Delta, about an hour from Hong Kong by hydrofoil. It consists of the Macau Peninsula, and Taipa and Coloane on a nearby island. The Cotai area, a glitzy, Vegas-like strip of hotels and casinos that began development in 2006, lies between Taipa and Coloane and merges the two. Most people visit Macau to gamble, eat cheap seafood, and shop. But don’t overlook its timeless charms and unique culture, born from centuries of both Portuguese and Chinese influence. WHAT’S WHEREThe Macau Peninsula. You’ll experience authentic Macau in vintage Portuguese squares and in European-style sidewalk cafés, as well as in Buddhist temples, with their red lanterns and fragrant joss sticks. In this exotic place where two worlds collide, don’t be surprised to find a pink colonial building housing a Chinese herbal-medicine shop. Taipa. The Portuguese presence on Macau dates from the mid-1500s, but the island of Taipa wasn’t occupied until the mid-1800s. It remained a garrison and a pastoral retreat until the 1970s, when it was linked to Macau by bridge. Today some parts retain a village feel, while others are crowded with soulless high-rises. Coloane. Although it’s now attached to its smaller sister island, Coloane is still less populated and more intimate than Taipa. Few tourists venture this far south; however, those who do will discover parks, beaches, and golf links, as well as unchanged Portuguese architecture and cobblestone streets. Cotai Strip. The 3-km (2-mile) causeway that once separated Coloane from Taipa has been bridged by a massive land-reclamation and development project that includes casinos, hotels, and shopping malls. PLANNINGTHE BASICSThe Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO) is well managed. To enter Macau, Americans and Canadians need only a valid passport for stays of up to 30 days, while EU citizens can stay for 90. The Macanese pataca (MOP) has a fixed exchange rate of MOP$1.032 to HK$1 and roughly MOP$8 to US$1. Patacas come in 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 MOP banknotes plus 1, 2, and 5 MOP coins. A pataca is divided into 100 avos, which come in 10-, 20-, and 50-avo coins. Hong Kong dollars are accepted in Macau on a 1:1 basis. Contacts LANGUAGEChinese and Portuguese are Macau’s official languages. Cantonese and Mandarin are widely spoken. English is unreliable outside tourist areas. GETTING TO MACAUAir TravelInternational flights (from Asia) come into Macau, but there are no planes from Hong Kong. Sky Shuttle offers 15-minute helicopter flights between Hong Kong’s Shun Tak Centre and the Macau Ferry Terminal; they leave every 30 minutes from 9 am to 11 pm daily and cost HK$4,100, with a surcharge of HK$400 on holidays. Reservations are essential. Contacts Ferry TravelFerries travel between Hong Kong and Macau every 15 minutes with a reduced schedule from midnight to 7 am. Economy/ordinary and super/deluxe seats cost between HK$169 and HK$420; VIP cabins range from HK$1,192 (four seats) to HK$1,788 (six seats). Weekday traffic is usually light, so you can buy tickets right before departure. Weekend tickets often sell out, so make reservations. You can book tickets up to 90 days in advance with China Travel Service agencies (www.ctshk.com) or directly with CotaiJet and TurboJET by phone or online. You must pick up tickets at the terminal at least a half hour before departure. Most ferries leave from Hong Kong’s Shun Tak Centre (which is connected to the Sheung Wan MTR station), though limited service is available at Kowloon’s Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui. In Macau most ferries dock at the main Macau Ferry Terminal, but CotaiJet services the terminal on Taipa. The trip takes one hour each way. Buses, taxis, and free shuttles to most casinos and hotels await on the Macau side. Contacts GETTING AROUND MACAUBus TravelPublic buses are clean and affordable. Trips to anywhere on the Macau Peninsula cost MOP$3.20; service to Taipa is MOP$4.20, and service to Coloane is MOP$5. Buses run from 6:30 am to midnight, and require exact change upon boarding. But you can get downtown for free, via hotel or casino shuttles, from the official Border Gate crossing just outside mainland China, from the airport, and from the Macau Ferry Terminal. Car TravelAs in Hong Kong, driving in Macau is on the left-hand side of the road. Road signs are in Chinese and Portuguese only. Rental cars with Avis are available at the Grand Lapa Macau. Regular cars start around MOP$750 for a full day. Book three to four days in advance for weekend rentals. Taxi TravelTaxis are inexpensive but not plentiful in Macau. The best places to catch a cab are the major casinos—the Wynn Macau, the Lisboas, the Sands Macao, and the Venetian Macao. Carry a bilingual map or ask the concierge at your hotel to write the name of your destination in Chinese. All taxis are metered, air-conditioned, and reasonably comfortable. The base charge is MOP$15 for the first 1.6 km (1 mile) and MOP$1.50 per additional 755 feet. Trips between Coloane and either the Macau Peninsula or Taipa incur respective surcharges of MOP$5 and MOP$2. Drivers don’t expect a tip. TOURSMacau is compact, and you can see the highlights on your own with relative ease, so taking an organized tour isn’t really necessary. But if you do want to sign on for one, check out your options at the travel counters of the main ferry terminals in either Macau or Hong Kong. Some offer tours in multiple languages. Cotai Travel. Estoril Tours. A Casino Crawl in Macau These days casinos are as much a part of the character of Macau as its cobblestone streets. Don’t expect dusty, dodgy caverns, though. This neon-clad city is all glam and glitz, chandeliers and sommeliers. Win or lose, checking out casinos is all part of the fun of being in Macau, and this itinerary includes some cultural sights, too. Planning Where to Stay: MGM Macau, Wynn Macau, Altira Macau Where to Eat and Drink: Margaret’s Café e Nata, Portas Do Sol, Il Teatro, Robuchon au Dôme, 38 Lounge Where to Play: The Hotel Lisboa, The Grand Lisboa, Wynn Macau, Altira Macau What to See: Senado Square, Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral, Grand Prix Museum, Wine Museum, The House of Dancing Water Itinerary 1. Margaret’s Café e Nata. Start the day with a warm, flaky egg tart. 2. Largo do Senado. You almost have to go home with the obligatory Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral photo. Saunter through Senado Square for a quick hit of history. 3. Wynn Macau. Break from the madding crowds and head to this swish address. With thick, beige drapes and plush furniture, the casino offers VIP treatment. 4. Hotel Lisboa. The infamous basement corridors and sparkling gaming floors of the Lisboa sister hotels are just a few blocks from the Wynn Macau. 5. Portas do Sol. Spend any remaining change you have left on dim sum. The pork buns and soup dumplings won’t disappoint. 6. Grand Prix Museum. A bit farther north, you’ll find colorful Formula 3 cars and memorabilia, as well as Macau’s Wine Museum next door. 7. Cotai Strip. Fast and furious in its own right, Cotai is constantly expanding. Despite a stream of incoming resort-cum-casino complexes, the Venetian Macao remains the highlight, with 2,000-odd slot machines and more than 600 gaming tables. 8. The House of Dancing Water. Snag tickets to the city’s most mesmerizing show, staged in City of Dreams. 9. Robuchon au Dôme. If you hit the jackpot, head to this French dining room for an unforgettable meal—and price tag to match. 10. 38 Lounge. Even if you end up with a thinner wallet, you can still cap the day with tapas and cocktails on the top floor of the Altira Macau. The views are fabulous—and free. Exploring Macau’s Culture Macau’s historical reputation may have been eclipsed by an ever-expanding matrix of casinos, but this former Portuguese colony has much to offer in the way of heritage and beauty. From the cobblestone streets to colonial facades, museums to Moorish architecture, fortresses to street food, Macau remains a city of color, character, and top-notch cuisine. Planning Where to Stay: Pousada de São Tiago, Pousada de Mong-Há, the Grand Lapa Macau Where to Eat and Drink: A Lorcha, Margaret’s Café e Nata, Restaurante Fernando, MacauSoul What to See: Senado Square and the Ruins of St. Paul, Fortaleza do Monte, Guia Hill, A-Ma Temple, Moorish Barracks Itinerary 1. Leitaria I Son. Fortify yourself by ordering a Macau-style smoothie made with frothy milk and fresh juice at one of Senado Square’s favorite cafés. 2. Largo do Senado. See everything or just the standouts, which include the House of Holy Mercy, St. Dominic’s Church, and, of course, the Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral and neighboring Na Tcha temple. 3. Fortaleza do Monte. Admire the 17th-century hilltop fort; then peruse the exhibits at the adjoining museum to see how Macau has evolved. 4. Margaret’s Café e Nata. Heading northeast along Avenida da Amizade, pop in for a quick lunch. Choose from flaky egg tarts, pastries, and made-to-order sandwiches. 5. Guia Hill. Take the short cable-car ride up Guia Hill, or lace up your sneakers and hike past quirky shrubs manicured to resemble dragons. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded by stunning views of all Macau. 6. Largo do Barra. Anchoring Barra Square, the A-Ma Temple was built in 1488 for the goddess of the sea. After seeing it, visit the Maritime Museum (also on the square) and the nearby Mandarin’s House. 7. Pousada de São Tiago. If you’re feeling peckish, stop by The Terrace at this romantic former fort for a refreshing tipple or old-school high tea. 8. Moorish Barracks. Originally housing a regiment from Goa to bolster local police, this neoclassical and Moghul complex has stood since 1874. 9. A Lorcha. Just off of Barra Square, the ever-popular Macanese eatery serves up hearty favorites in a friendly atmosphere. It’s best to make reservations. 10. MacauSoul. End the day by lingering over a glass of Portuguese wine—and perhaps listening to live music—at this jazzy venue back in Senado Square.
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